Because coffee has two jobs. Most mornings it just needs to be good — reliably, affordably, by the third cup. That's Mr. Beans: the West University roaster whose whole personality is great beans from around the world without the ceremony. It's the coffee behind cafe counters and office machines across Houston, and the can on your shelf that never lets you down.

And then some cups deserve ceremony. Cleo Roasting Co. is what our roasters do when we give them the best lots we can find — single origins from Ethiopia, Colombia, Papua New Guinea — bought through relationships where we can name the producer, roasted so each lot tastes like where it grew. Bottled in glass because it deserves it. When a lot is gone, it's gone — that's the point.

Same fire, same hands, same twice-a-week roast schedule at our Houston commissary. The only question is which cup the moment calls for.